Branco de Santa Cruz is based on a little organic vineyard beneath the Valdeorras village of Santa Cruz. Grown at 500 metres’ altitude, an indigenous yeast fermentation is followed by 12 months’ maturation in neutral old wooden vats. The wine is labelled Branco de Santa Cruz, since it is a village wine with some other parcels around the valley supplementing the fruit from A Coroa.
A superbly textural wine with lovely clarity, minerality and line. There’s honey, wattle and crunchy gravel soil twitched up with a bunch of wild herbs. The palate has good body but lengthens beautifully, phenolics are both constructive and controlled and the whole thing is beguiling and gently expansive (