A seamless Champagne, lithe with fresh, finely knit acidity, and showing beautiful integration, with a rich vein of smoky minerality underscoring flavours of black cherry, toast, preserved lemon and pickled ginger. There’s power and focus here, but this bubbly highlights the grace and accessibility that 2009 can offer even on release.
Pol Roger’s 2009 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill has turned out very well, offering up a demonstrative bouquet of golden apples, clear honey, hazelnuts and fresh pastry that’s still quite primary. Full-bodied, fleshy and textural, it’s deep and concentrated, with an ample core of fruit, ripe but racy acids, a pinpoint mousse and a long, penetrating finish. This is an expressive, deceptively immediate rendition of this bottling, yet despite its charm out of the gates, readers willing to wait at least five years will be rewarded with significant additional complexity. Robert Parker.