The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Village reveals a pretty bouquet of white peach, lemon, citrus blossom and beeswax. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied, elegant and glossy, with an open-knit, succulent profile. This will drink well on release. This important house—and, with fully 73 hectares of its own vines, domaine—has produced a lovely range of quintessentially elegant wines in the 2017 vintage. With the reds, particular brilliance emerges from Chambolle-Musigny, and the whites are successful across the board, exemplifying the succulent, tender house, an aesthetic deeply in sync with the inherent profile of the vintage. Véronique Drouhin, with whom I tasted this year, briefly summarises the growing season and the wines it yielded as “early, warm, sunny, dry and charming”—an account that is hardly necessary to embellish. Readers will likely have noted that the Drouhin team are using increasingly large percentages of whole clusters this year, something that the wines—with the sole exception of a slightly carbonic Clos de Bèze—integrate very well. Robert Parker.
This is impressive from the outset with a wealth of white peaches and melon, as well as green mangoes and subtle hazelnut notes. The palate has a very long, fresh delivery of fine and open-knit peaches and lemons. Plush and open. Drinking well already. James Suckling.